Author Archives: thesailingfrog

Aug 22, 2018 NWP day 19 Iqaluit, Nunavut

Iqaluit is a bit of a shocking return to the South with an avant-garde airport, big pick up trucks everywhere, a paved ring road, line-ups of colorful government buildings and gangs of kids wearing hoodies and tight leggings. It is … Continue reading

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Aug 21, 2018 NWP day 18 First Air to Iqaluit, Nunavut

Early start to walk to the airport at the top of town, no taxis in Pond! We are booked on First Air, feeling lucky for our confirmed seats although they cost as much as a return trip from Victoria to … Continue reading

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Aug 20, 2018 NWP day 17 Pond inlet 89 NM total 738.8 NM

This is it, we are on to plan B. The ice reports have gotten worse and are forbidding, no way to get to Cambridge bay, or Gjoa Haven or even just through Lancaster sound for at least 10 days and … Continue reading

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Aug 19, 2018 NWP day 16 Tay bay 2nd night

We were planning to poke our head North into Lancaster sound but after hearing from Muktuk about the conditions, we opt for a walk on shore hoping to sight some wildlife. We dinghy across the shallow silty bay, Fred carrying … Continue reading

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Aug 18, 2018 NWP day 15 Tay Bay 86 NM total 649.8 NM Latitude: 73.49247 Longitude: -80.71597

We are going North from White bay to Tay bay on the North West corner of Bylot Island. We start at 6 am with no wind, no fog and no rain for a while, then all of the above. Winds … Continue reading

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Aug 17, 2018 NWP day 14 White Bay 23,1 NM total 563,8 NM

We lost signal yesterday shortly after leaving Pond Inlet, so today the post is by satphone, which means no pictures. Sorry about that. I will add them later. Yesterday was a delight, the fog lifted and we went West in … Continue reading

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Aug 16, 2018 NWP day by 13 Frechette island in Eclipse sound 36.8 NM total 544.7 NM

We went to visit Kisha and Ruda at their camp by the river yesterday and walked by old round houses build with stones, sand , mosses, lichen. There are many bones of whale and other mammals and birds emerging from … Continue reading

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Aug 15, 2018 NWP day 12 still hanging in Pond Inlet Hamlet

We get woken up this morning by rumbling noises along the hull of the boat. This is just some flat pieces of iceberg that are travelling fast with the current and hitting us pretty hard. We receive quite a few … Continue reading

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Aug 14, 2018 NWP day 11 Pond inlet bound

We are hoping to pick up the broken part for the auto pilot from First Air this afternoon, already a day late and now the plane is late. We have thoroughly been back and forth and back again, we know … Continue reading

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Aug 13, 2018 NWP day 10 on shore Pond inlet

We land the dinghy on the beach getting slightly wet due to the swells since there are no docks in Pond Inlet. Then we walk west on the beach for about 2 mm and it feels really good to see … Continue reading

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Aug 12, 2018 NWP day 9 Pond Inlet Nunavut 9NM total 507,9

We start the morning with seven showers , each one of us getting a turn. Fredo also put a load in the washing machine on board, a small genie that can take 8 kg and return them smelling fresh again … Continue reading

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Aug 11, 2018 NWP day 8 Beloeil island total 498,9 NM

We are in sight of Baffin island , about 15 miles from our chosen Anchorage south of Bylot island. We have gone through thick fog and rain, but it’s lifting a bit as we approach land. We can see snow … Continue reading

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Aug 10, 2018 NWP day 7 Crossing Baffin Bay further West

Dunnery and I have been married 33 years today, we are giving ourselves rain-checks for celebrations. The hour long watches continue day and night. It is not harder at night because there is no night. It’s no longer a midnight … Continue reading

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Aug 9, 2018 NWP day 6 Crossing Baffin Bay at sea about 55 NM total 183.9 NM

We start crossing Baffin Bay at 11:45 towards Dundas Harbour on Lancaster sound. The heater is still not cooperating and after about 3 hours driving with fog under auto-pilot, It stops working as well. Daughter Veronica is our saviour, she … Continue reading

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Aug 8, 2018 NWP day 5 Itivsalik 69.3 NM total 128.9 NM

Foggy departure at 7am, with a light wind from the South. The morning is a treat despite the fog as we pass monumental icebergs and incredibly artistic ice sculptures, that remind us of swans, sphinxes, towers, forts, an ice-cream cone … Continue reading

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Aug 7, 2018 NWP day 4, Sardlerssuaq 25.6 NM total 59.6 NM

We had a delicious dinner of Arctic char given to us by the crew of Destiny. The night was comfortable at anchor despite the heavy rain and howling winds. By late morning, after checking the forecast, Skipper Fred decides that … Continue reading

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Aug 6, 2018 Day 3 on the NWP. Aappilatoq West Greenland 26.5 NM total 34.6 NM

Unfortunately, the Satphone did not send the picture yesterday so we are investigating… We had a wonderful dinner last night of Icelandic lamb shoulder with green beans and French fries, a quiet night at anchorage and this morning was much … Continue reading

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Aug 5, 2018 Day 2 on NWP near Upernavik Island 5.2 NM total 8.5 NM

This is a first trial to send a blog by Satphone, and I have included one picture as well as a test. Last night we got quickly on our way to a nice quiet anchorage south of Upernavik after landing … Continue reading

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Aug 4, 2018 Flew to Upernavik and SV Fredoya, anchored South of Upernavik 3.3 NM

The Air Greenland flight is delayed until 6 pm so we have an extra day in Ilulissat for the museums before we rejoin the Freds on board Fredoya tonight.   We don’t know if they plan to leave tonight or … Continue reading

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Aug 4 2018 hiking towards the ice

  And a few pictures from our hike .

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August 3, 2018 Ilulissat Greenland

It drizzles all day but it’s not cold, so we walk around town all day. The town is prosperous and very pleasant. The houses have a lot of character and we find our way through a network of roads, paths, … Continue reading

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August 2, 2018 Ilulissat Greenland

The Air Iceland Dash 8 took us over in three hours above the thick clouds and we touched down in UNESCO World Heritage site Disko Bay. Flying West, we have already regained one hour of the seven we lost going … Continue reading

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August 2 2018 Reykjavik to Greenland by Air Iceland

A few pictures of quaint Reykjavik before we fly to Greenland. I am adding the ice concentration map which shows good progress in the last 10 days. I may not be able to blog in Greenland so please be patient … Continue reading

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August 1st 2018 Reykjavik Iceland

    After two flights, we have arrived in Iceland without trouble. The car rental service representative was about as awake as we were at 5:00 am, seems he had missed a night’s sleep just as we had. The hotel … Continue reading

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Jour J – 1, are we all packed yet?

It’s 8:00 pm in Victoria and yes I think we got it all, I hope we got it all. it was so hard to figure out what to bring, and even harder to make decisions about what not to bring. … Continue reading

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Watching the ice melt, Time-15 days

Of course, you can’t see the ice melt on the concentration map when you check everyday as I do, but given a week in between readings, the melting is visible and accelerating at a good pace. This is very encouraging … Continue reading

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Death in the Ice, the mystery of the Franklin expedition

This is the title of the special exhibition at the Canadian Museum of History in Ottawa that we went to visit. The exhibit is well worth seeing even for us who have spent the last couple years reading every book … Continue reading

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What are we waiting for?

Long days, high temperatures in most of the world, why are we not off to Greenland right away, I have been asked a few times lately. We are waiting for the Arctic sea ice extent to shrink. If you look … Continue reading

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Imaqa, our sister-ship cast away June 4

At 14:00 hours Pacific Standard time,  J-F and the crew of Imaqa departed Canoe Cove on Vancouver Island for the first leg of their journey through the NWP,  North to Kodiak Alaska. They had a fine breeze and left under … Continue reading

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I would take the Northwest Passage

From Upernavik in Greenland to Nome in Alaska,  my dream is coming true. “Ah, for just one time I would take the Northwest Passage To find the hand of Franklin reaching for the Beaufort Sea; Tracing one warm line through … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 August 9 Day 79 Oak Bay Marina Victoria 57 NM Total 2933 NM

This is our home coming, early wake-up to shoot Dodds Narrows at high slack and drift with the ebb all the way home. It works as we get great currents pushing us South. All goes well, we tie the boat … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 August 8, Day 78 Nanaimo Yacht Club 77 NM Total 2876NM

Another day in paradise, that is true summer, warm water, sunshine, moderate winds at predictable hours, nothing could be better!  Georgia Strait is a little choppy but  nothing unpleasant.  We just miss the whales and the sea otters already and … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013August 7 day 77 Teakern Arm Desolation Sound 98.3 NM Total 2799 NM

Four hours of total fog out of Port McNeil very early, in less than 1/8 of a mile visibility. This is the price we pay to arrive in SUMMER. And summer we get, most beautiful day through Johnstone Strait and … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 August 6 Day 76 Port McNeil Vancouver Island 83.3 NM Total 2700 NM

We  must go round Cape Caution and cross Queen Charlotte Sound today and depart at 6 am to catch the full flood. It is a good idea to be safe and even more important today as we are completely fogged … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 Fogust 5 Day 75 Home Bay River Inlet 46.8 NM Total 2637 NM

As now usual we start in the fog  by sailing a GS, zig-zagging through the gill-netters that are out en masse in Fitz Hugh Sound. They have the sound pretty much on full intercept,  raking all the spawning salmon in … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 Fogust 4th Day 74 Codville Lagoon (2) via Shearwater 82.3 NM Total 2590 NM

Our moving days are getting longer as we are anxious to get home soon.  12 hours today and more scrabble as the water is pretty flat. We start quite early in a bit of fog and  the cold weather, fogust … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 Aug 3 Day 73 Green Inlet Graham Reach Inside Passage 65 NM Total 2508 NM

Another full day with 60 miles to the South. Early departure means calm waters and we can sail or motor-sail while taking turn at Scrabble, a new challenge for Dunnery. When we reach the arm between Gribbell  Island and Princess … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 Aug 2 Day 72 Lowe Inlet (2) Grenville Channel 59.6 NM Total 2443 NM

Mike and Paul are off to the airport in Prince Rupert to catch a flight back to Ontario early morning and we sail as they go in a very overcast sky. Not foggy per say, just a low ceiling. After … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 31-Aug 1 Day 70-71 Back Home to Pilsbury Inlet and Prince Rupert, BC 78.7NM and 3.6 NM Total 2384 NM

Our plan to leave Nichols Bay early for the Dundas Islands across the border is thwarted by the fog. We go, and abort and re-anchor to wait. After a short while, the fog is omnipresent but not that thick so … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 30 Day 69 Nichols Bay POW Island 37.2 NM Total 2301 NM

Another glorious day in paradise Alaska. No other boat around, bright sunshine, whales, rock gardens, a few dolphins, a bit of sailing,  all the usual fun. We are reaching the south end of Prince of Wales Island and as we … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 29 Day 68 Mabel Bay Prince of Wales Island 47.4 NM Total 2264 Nautical Miles

We have a very special day going south of the 55 degree latitude north line in gorgeous  weather with warm winds and end up swimming in Mabel Bay  by the time the anchor is down. We reach a speed of … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 28 Day 67 Craig POW Island 23.8 NM Total 2217 NM

Our prawn trap contains a starfish, a small rock fish, and only 2 dozen spot prawns this morning. Sounds like somebody ate our prawns. It is the second glorious day in a row and we just rave in the sunshine … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 27 Day 66 Nossuk Bay Prince of Wales Island 20.7 NM Total 2183 NM

Getting on the way is a bit delayed today as  a very large starfish has caught tight hold of our anchor chain and we need to kick it off with the boat hook. It is a bright sunny day and … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 26 Day 65 Sarkar Cove El Capitan 43.4NM Total 2172 NM

From misty early to a glorious sunny day we passed a few trawlers in Chatham strait, then Mt Calder and soon turned off into El Capitan Passage. It is a very narrow passage through a maze of islands and islets, … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 25 Day 64 Port Protection Prince of Wales Island 32.1 NM Total 2129 NM

We successfully went through Rocky Pass,  37  navigation aids set by the Coast Guard  to help guide you in narrow and very shallow waters  in superb surroundings. The passage has to be time for the high slack at Devil’s elbow, … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 24 Day 63 Horseshoe Island Top of Rocky Pass 47 NM Total 2097 NM

We take an early start to be able to go to Kake and on to the top of Rocky Pass to be well set-up to wait for the right time to proceed safely tomorrow.  The first two hours are no … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 23 Day 62 Red Bluff Inlet Chatham Strait 21 NM 2050 NM

More hot-springs  in the rain  in the morning and an easy ride to Red Bluff inlet. Indeed red bluffs are surrounding the inlet and also vertical cliffs and giant waterfalls. Water  is deep right to the shore and we were … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 22 Day 61 Baranof Warm Springs Cove 38.6NM Total 2028 NM

A few hours of travel through Peril Strait into Chatham Strait and we hide away in Warm Spring Bay on the state float by a giant waterfall in  the small village of Baranof on Baranof Island. There is a lodge … Continue reading

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Alaska 2013 July 21 day 60 Sergius Narrow Peril Strait to Appleton Cove 60 NM Total 1990 NM

With our extra crew  settled on board, we  have planned to go through the serious Sergius narrows at slack. It means departing Sitka at 6:00 am in the usual mist and we can barely see the silhouette of Mt Edgecumbe, … Continue reading

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2013 July 19-20 Day 58-59 Sitka Baranof Island Alaska

A little memo to say we are fine in Craig on Prince of Wales Island but I will keep the blogs coming in order as I catch up. There is very little internet in this  grizzly neck of the woods! … Continue reading

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