Iqaluit is a bit of a shocking return to the South with an avant-garde airport, big pick up trucks everywhere, a paved ring road, line-ups of colorful government buildings and gangs of kids wearing hoodies and tight leggings.

Narwhal tusk inside the Legislature

It is also very much the North with the distinct culture and language of Nunavut, and still the frontier with wilderness all around and of course the ruggedness of Frobisher bay.

A storm is brewing, we have gale winds blowing and some showers and there is nowhere to hide. No harbour for the boats, no lee for the people. Iqaluit was started there as an army base for Distant Early Warning or DEW. The traditional village called Apex is smartly located at the end of a 2.5 km smugglers coastal trail on a beautiful sandy beach and in the lee of a hill.

We actually walk there to see the original Hudson’s Bay post or white house with red roof in Inuktituk.

We also walked all through the Territorial park bordering the airport and the river. Camping is obviously encouraged and there are dozens of permanent waterproof tents throughout the park. Locals are fishing for arctic char in the falls despite the signs saying not to.

This is the last post for this trip as we are flying home now. Thank you for following and all the encouraging comments.