This is it, we are on to plan B. The ice reports have gotten worse and are forbidding, no way to get to Cambridge bay, or Gjoa Haven or even just through Lancaster sound for at least 10 days and there are no guarantees anyway. Most boats if not all 18 that were waiting are turning around and so are we. Even if we got through the first part later, we are almost certain not to be able to get past Cambridge bay or Tuktuyaktuk at the best. It would be too late in the season to negotiate the Beaufort sea with so much ice, winds, and darkness.

The Canadian authorities notified Fredoya directly that the conditions were not allowing for a safe transit and that boats deciding to persist against their recommendations would not receive assistance making their way through. They warned that they should be prepared to overwinter on the way.

Best to heed to that, so this morning we turned around, heading South to Pond inlet again. It’s foggy and wet again, with icebergs to keep us alert at the helm. There is a feel that summer is already over in the Arctic. We make our way back to Pond inlet slowly in swelly seas. Surprisingly, I manage to keep seasickness at bay.

We anchor in front of the Village, surrounded by many good size icebergs, it’s chilly out.

Good thing our Skipper has prepared a special treat for tonight, the brandade de morue is finishing to bake in the oven. Fred fished the cod, salted it, desalted it , Fredo boned it.